Wednesday, June 30, 2010

More Pictures ...


We put up some more recent pictures .... enjoy!
(...and added some comments to the other album too, to explain what those pictures are about. You can still get to that one by clicking on the link in the other pictures post from before.)
(click here)

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Goodbye, Land of Living Skies!



From Prince Albert we went northwest to Meadow Lake Provincial Park, where we stayed at a site really close to a nice beach. After dinner there we went on a 6 km hike around Kimball Lake, and apparently we were the first to do so in a long while. It was super overgrown and a few times we just made up where to go, and we got a Great Blue Heron really mad ... almost half a dozen times we accidentally snuck up on it, and it "yelled" and screeched angrily at us from high up in the trees, only to fly away in the direction we were walking. Also, exactly halfway around the lake, we heard something loud that sounded like a child screaming, and then something running through the trees and bushes on our left (between us and the lake). When the noises stopped, Chris checked it out with his binoculars, and it turned out to be a baby deer who was so frightened of us that he ran around and then jumped in the lake! By the time Chris saw him, he was about a quarter of the way across the kilometre-long swim he had committed to. His mom burst out of the trees nearby and we think she went around to meet him. We felt so bad, but we kept our eye on him as we hiked and it looked like he made it across. We also saw some huge footprints in the sand of the trail ... they were about three quarters of the size of Katie's feet (although that's not saying that much!), and when we did a little research we figured out that they were most likely cougar or lynx.
We went south the next morning to Saskatchewan Landing Provincial Park, which was surrounded by rolling hills. We did a really cool hike through the hills and saw areas where early settlers had set up there homes in the late 1800's, and our presence scared a herd of cows into running away -- it turns out it's pretty hilarious to watch cows run.
We spent two days there, because we had to wait out the reconstruction of the Trans Canada Highway after the incredible amounts of flooding in that area broke a dam and overflowed the highway. After the pipes underneath it failed, a huge area of the westbound lanes were completely washed out. It was fixed enough to have one lane each way by Saturday, so we went to Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park. We did a cool hike through their forest on our second day there, and then believe it or not spent the rest of the afternoon lounging by the park's pool!! What a bizarre thing to have in a park ... but the beach wasn't nice at all so it worked for us. Also, the park has a dark sky preserve, which we took advantage of with Chris's telescope, but it didn't really ever get that dark out because the moon was so full and bright!
We crossed into Alberta yesterday, and spent the night in Dinosaur Provincial Park, which has some of the most dinosaur fossil findings in North America. We did an amazing hike through their Badlands, and the way that water and erosion shaped the land made it unbelievable to look at. We also got to watch a huge beaver cruise around, munching on plants, and we saw our first Mule Deer lounging in the hills. When coyotes started howling it was almost impossible to find, because it hid so low it looked like a rock from afar. Today we are headed to Kinbrook Provincial Park, and the general plan is to spend about and week and a half in southern Alberta, then catch a day or two of the Stampede, and then start heading north to see Chris's cousin Bev in Edmonton. After that .... Rockies here we come!

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Northern Skatch



There's internet up here! That was shocking, and we decided to make use of it since it's around.
So we are in Saskatchewan now, and yet again way back up north. We went to the Provincial Information booth like we did in Manitoba, but the guy at this one was much less helpful and truthfully looked like he wished we would just go away. So we went to Duck Mountain Provincial Park, which was uneventful and incredibly rainy. In the morning we left to a park only about 2.5 hours away (our shortest drive yet between parks) - Greenwater Lake Provincial Park. In the provincial parks booklet we had read it sounded like an amazing place, so we decided to check it out on our way up north. Maybe it is nice, but not when we got there. It had obviously rained a ton and there was no drainage to speak of, so the sites were completely saturated and everywhere we stepped the gravel ground sunk below us and our feet got soaked. Also, the campsite fire pits in Saskatchewan were not too promising; the ones in Duck Mountain were raised up to chest level on poles, and the ones in Greenwater were old garbage bins with holes in them . Not much warmth there, and to get to the one in Greenwater we had to get too wet to enjoy it! We weren't too excited about this prairie province, especially because they also charged lots more than Manitoba and added $6.00 a site if you were from another province. Mental!
However, things looked up when we went up north the next day to Narrow Hills Provincial Park, where the wildlife was everywhere and the landscape was beautiful. (Although it must be noted that we first passed a town called Tisdale, whose welcome sign boasted: "Tisdale, Land of Rape and Honey". No kidding. That was the sign.) We found out that Narrow Hills offered "wilderness camping" in three areas (which meant it was free - but also that there were no flush toilets or people checking that you survived the night in the middle of nowhere), so we decided to check those out. We found an amazing site right on one of tons of lakes in the Gem Lake Region, and the lakes were rightfully named after their amazing and ever-changing colours. The interesting thing about this site was that you couldn't drive right up to it, so we had to park the car and walk our stuff down about 100 metres. That really isn't much of a walk, but it made us think more than usual about what we needed to make dinner and set up camp since our stuff wasn't 10 feet away like usual. We had leftover pasta for dinner and brought all of our food related stuff (and basically everything we didn't need for the sleep) back to the car. It rained for about an hour, but after that it cleared up completely and was unbelievably calm and quiet. We had a fire and read and relaxed, watching the lake change colours as the sun set, and then we started hearing the cries of a bear about 100-150 metres away. It kept making noise, and so we could hear where it was traveling as the sound carried through the still air. We went to bed, and Katie was pretty nervous, but Chris kept her calm. It truly was incredible how still the night was - there was not a single frog or bug noise and the absolute still air kept the leaves in the trees from rustling. At one point in the night we heard the footsteps of something huge plodding down the hill towards the site, and when we woke up in the morning we found the tracks of either a moose or an elk. They were enormous!
We packed up and left to Lac La Ronge Provincial Park, which is the most north we can go in Saskatchewan for camping. It was really beautiful there (except for the stupid waist high fire pit!), and we spent the night playing scrabble by the fire and woke in the morning to coffees on their boat dock in a bright hot sun (Finally!). The best part about that place was their weather forecast ... the Environment Canada weather site had a picture of a smokey fire instead of the usual little icon of sun or rain. The "current condition" was "smoke", and the forecast for the morning was "local smoke". We thought it was so funny ... apparently it was like that because there were 37 fires in the area and 6 were out of control .... but nobody seemed concerned about it so it must not have been that rare.
Now we are on day two at Prince Albert National Park, which is the best yet in Saskatchewan. It is a huge park and has an actual ground level fire pit (and the one we got is brand new), and we are surrounded by incredibly tall pines (which bent like crazy in the wind and sounded like massive creaking doors!). They have a major bear warning out right now, and two massive bear traps set up, because apparently a mama and two cubs are wandering through all the sites. The traps will just relocate them, not hurt them, and we have yet to run into any. We always clean our site after eating and before going to bed, so there is no real reason for them to come see us. The cool thing about this park is that there are deer everywhere and they are not really scared of humans. one hung out with us last night in the campsite next to us while we brushed out teeth and got ready for bed, and it wasn't the least bit scared of closing car doors or our voices. Today we spent hours laying on the beach, which was awesome, and many deer came cruising by us along the forest line totally unconcerned about our presence.
Tomorrow we are onwards again ..... to Meadow Lake Provincial Park and then back south to check out the bottom half.

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Picture Links


The real blog post is below, but we also wanted to post this link. It goes to Katie's facebook photo album, where we have put a bunch of the pictures from the trip. Enjoy!
Photo Album (click this!)

The End of Manitoba



(As a side note, that top picture looks like we did some cut and paste, but that is a real panoramic view of the land around us on our hike! You can click on the pictures to make them bigger)
This is definitely the shortest amount of time we have had between our blog updates, but we are more aware of what northern Canada has to offer in terms of the internet, and we know that we will not have much communication in the next week or so.
When we left The Pas it was to go to Riding Mountain National Park, and we got there quite late. Really it was a relatively uneventful campground, but the one very exciting thing we saw was a female moose at the side of the road going through the park to the campground. This was Chris's first ever moose sighting, and Katie can't remember if she saw one at Killarney that one time that Mo did, or if she made that up in her mind. The other first we had in that park was deer breakfast sausage. It was so good!
The next day we went to Spruce Woods Provincial Park, which was recommended to us by the lady at the Manitoba Information Centre. The first thing we did was three huge loads of laundry, which was desperately needed. We didn't quite have enough change for the dryers, so our campsite was converted into a laundry drying station in the beautiful hot sun. For dinner we made the entire thing on the campfire ... we had huge potatoes, red and green peppers, tomatoes, and maple beans (Chris's all time favourite). It was so satisfying.
We decided to make it a two day stay, so that we could soak up the rare sun rays. We woke up that morning to the sounds of a huge pack of coyotes howling their hearts out somewhere nearby, apparently out on quite the hunt. We played an intense game of scrabble in the early afternoon heat, because the hike we wanted to do was going to be really hot and they recommended doing it closer to the evening. The hike was through Manitoba's only desert-like area -- it wasn't quite a desert because it got enough rainfall throughout the year, but it was four square kilometres of sand dunes (that used to be 6,500 square kilometres thousands of years ago!). The trail also went to a large ground-fed pond called the "Devil's Punchbowl", which was a swirling pool of blues, purples, and greens because of the water fed through the sand below. We hiked for about three and a half hours, and ended up doing about 9km. It looked like man-made terrain, because it would go from arid dunes to lush forest in no time, all depending on the elevation and the way the wind brought the rain through the area. It was stunning, and we even got to see Manitoba's only cactus. We thought it was pretty cool looking, but we didn't appreciate how rare it was until we came across a woman on our way back. When she saw us, she asked if we had seen the flower that grows out of it, and when we said we had she was so excited. She said that she had sat near it all morning waiting for it to flower and it never did, so she was on her second trip of the day to see the flower it produces. Pretty cool!
When we got back it was around 8, so we got dinner going. We had garlic deer sausage on a bun ... it was so much meatier and heartier than the sausages we are so used to buying in grocery stores. It was amazing! We could only finish half of the small one that Dwight gave us ... we still have the other half and an even bigger one to enjoy! For dessert we cooked up bananas in their skins filled with chocolate and pecans while we made plans for our journey through Saskatchewan, and had a raccoon visitor who apparently loved the smell of the dessert. That night we heard some very loud noises, which we can only assume were raccoons fighting nearby. We are definitely in the wild!

Thursday, June 17, 2010

New Friends!



(PS yet again this is number 2 of 2 so read the 55th parallel one first!)




We drove to Clearwater Lake Provincial Park on the morning of June 12th. The drive was only about 4 hours, but along the way we had our first gas scare adventure (barely made it to the gas station after we left), and then we met a baby black bear on the road. He looked really hungry and straggly, so we think that his mom must have been killed and he was on his own searching for food and water. He was pretty bold ... he came right up to the car to see what we had as we stopped to let him cross the road. We drove to the next campground about ten minutes away, and let them know that he was there, but they said they would have to send the RCMP to help him because all of their conservation authorities were off fighting a huge forest fire somewhere north of us.
When we got to Clearwater we chose a site that was electric, since we needed to plug in our cooler and cool down our food again after a few warm days. One of the main features of the campground was a tiny little hike along the "caves" of the lake, which are actually huge crevices in the rocks where they split apart. We explored that area and then headed back home for a relaxing night by the fire. Just after we finished dinner, we were sitting at the picnic table on our site when a couple with a cute little puppy walked by. As seems to be the common reaction, we gave them a wave as they passed our site. They slowed down, and asked what part of Ontario we were from. We started talking (and playing with the puppy), and they told us that they were just down the road in an RV, with their four kids. They were Jen and Dwight, seasonal campers at the park, and they were from just around the corner in The Pas. As we talked, they suggested that since they know the area they should take us on their powerboat to tour us around the lake that they know so well. So within minutes of meeting these incredible people we were strapped up in life jackets in their boat, getting to know their four kids - Cordelia, the oldest at 11 (and 16 at heart -- so mature and fun!), 9 year old Joshua, (the little man of the house), 7 year old Christopher (little Christopher we called him ... the monkey/wildman who bonded instantly with big Chris), and lastly, 4 year old D'Anna (who was an instant snuggler and heart melter). (Hi guys, if you end up checking out this site!) They took us around the area of Clearwater Lake near our campground, and the lake was true to its name. We could see to the bottom even in the deep deep areas, and as we cruised around we got to see groups of terns flying alongside the boat, and American White Pelicans taking a rest among them on long stretches of rocks above the water. (Much to birdwatcher Chris's delight of course!) All the while we got to watch the sun setting over the lake -- at almost 10 pm because we were so far north! After we got back to shore, they invited to their site down the road to join them in making homemade beavertail desserts. They were delicious! The next morning we went to invite them over for a chocolate chip pancake breakfast -- the best we could offer them after all they had done, and somehow we ended up making them there and eating a huge "family breakfast" of pancakes, bacon, and watermelon. Then they convinced us to stay at the campground an extra day, since it was such a sunny beautiful day and they wanted to show us the beaches and views around the lake in the day. We were quite easily convinced, and before we knew it we were again on the boat under piles of towels, snacks, kids and a puppy. (As a side note, they found that puppy in a bus shelter and after hours of it still waiting there and nobody taking it, they decided to take it home because kids were starting to kick it. They had ads everywhere saying they had him, but nobody responded. They were trying to give him away and to be honest Chris and I were on the fence for a long time about trying to fit him into our packed car. We were VERY close to being puppy parents but it just wasn't doable). They took us to a little beach that was basically their very own since nobody else was there, and we played in the cold water, in the hot sun, among the rolling sandbars, and cooked up hot dogs on their bbq. Then we went over to the more public beach where Jen and Dwight chatted with friends and the kids (yes, that includes us too!) played in the water and on the beach. They cooked up a big steak and potato dinner that night and yet again were insistent that we join the fun, so we ate a glorious dinner, played in the park with the kids, and even played Sequence after the kids had gone to bed. It was like a family vacation day that we somehow felt right at home in ... it was unreal.
Even the next day, we drove into The Pas to get supplies and gas, so they gave us their address to come over and we ended up playing with their kids in the backyard (Chris and the kids had a trampoline party!), and getting teary eyed when we actually had to go for real. As a goodbye gift (as if we hadn't gotten enough) Dwight loaded us up with deer meat that he had hunted himself and brought to a really good butcher -- we now are eating like Canadian Kings and Queens with deer breakfast sausage, deer garlic sausage, and deer salami!
The simple fact that we needed an electric site put us in the arms of the kindest, happiest, most open-hearted family in all of Manitoba, and made the province a million times better than we thought possible. Now THAT is a Canadian experience.

Above the 55th Parallel



The morning after that rainy day we headed out of Grand Beach and toured around Winnipeg. The touring part was pretty accidental, because we were specifically searching for a Canadian Tire, a Walmart, and a place for Chris to get his hair chopped off, so really we just drove in circles looking for those places and in the process saw most of Winnipeg. After we finished hair chopping, returning broken shovels, and buying propane, we headed to Hecla Provinincial Park. We were there for almost less than 12 hours, because after our Winnipeg adventures we got in late, and the next morning we were up by 6 and out by 8 after hot showers to make our long trek north to Thompson. It was about an eight hour drive, and truly, not much happened along the way. One funny thing that did happen was that a big Texan truck came barreling by us at about 140 or 50 in a 100 zone, and then about an hour later we saw him pulled over by the cops. We thought he would have learned his lesson but about an hour after that it was like de-ja-vu ... he came speeding by us again and was out of sight within minutes! We also went through Grand Rapids, which blew our minds a little bit because it appeared that the gas station was the town's main hangout, and there were kids running around everywhere and all the adults were standing around inside the convenience store/cafe part smoking and chatting! Life is a little different up there - apparently the only rule was don't smoke too close to the gas pumps and everybody will be happy.
We also saw a sneaky little gopher who was on the shoulder as we approached and as soon as he saw us he crouched down and shuffled backwards back into the brush ... apparently the gophers up north are much more talented.
Anyway, eventually we got up to Paint Lake Provincial Park, where the campsites were unfortunately quite open, and there was an infestation of weird silkworm-like crawlies that hung from every leaf or every tree. We couldn't walk anywhere without going through their drapery of webs, and they managed to even infiltrate our tent and crawl all over our bed. It was disgusting. However, we trooped through it and even had our first s'mores of the trip. They were amazing. The next day we drove to a nearby provincial historic site, Pisew Falls. There was a 22 km hike there, that suggested hikers allow 12 hours to do the full loop. We laughed at that because so far in our hikes we have averaged about 1km/15-20 minutes, which at the most would have had us hiking for 8 hours with stops. Since we were leaving at 3, and the sun stayed out until after 11, we thought we would be fine. We came with food and were excited for an adventure, especially because it was basically an abandoned trail with lots of brush and dense woods. In any case, about 4 km into the hike, after very long steep slopes and bushwhacking our way through mossy forest, as well as seeing tons of bear prints, we realized we were in a bit over our heads. We kept going for another couple of kilometres, and then after seeing more and more prints (huge ones bigger than my hand stretched out, accompanied by little baby bear ones which meant protective mommas), we decided it was definitely time to turn around. It got a wee bit scary when I stopped to look at a particularly large print and suddenly in the near distance we both heard the cry of a baby bear -- we picked up the pace a bit at that point! We came ready for adventure and definitely got it. We had our butts kicked by that trail but in any case the 11km we did do felt great after so much driving, not to mention we made it out in one piece! (Don't worry, we read the 'bear aware' pamphlet ... so everything that we could possibly do to warn the bears of our presence we were doing! We're practically pros.) :)
That night, it goes without saying, we slept like babies after our adventure. The next morning we were back on the road again ... headed for Clearwater Lake Provincial Park with no clue of what was in store.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Manitoba has Begun!


(By the way .... we wrote two blogs today to catch up. Read the 'rain,sun' one first!)
After Sleeping Giant, we headed to Quetico Provincial Park. We went through the lovely town of Thunder Bay, where the first stand up citizen we came across cut Katie off in her lane and then yelled a stream of words that should not be written in a blog. What a beautiful town!
We were really excited about Quetico because it was well known internationally for its conservation and wildlife, but unfortunately the majority of the park was only accessible by canoe or floater plane. So we went to their main campground, and settled in for the night. We were there too late to buy wood, but Chris used his Davey Crockett skills and gathered enough dead wood from the forest around us to create quite the fire. When it all burned down we went to bed on the coldest night of our trip; it went down to about 5 or 6 degrees and the two of us woke up with even our heads buried deep into our sleeping bag. It was freezing! The next morning involved nice hot showers, which thawed us out, and after a quick breakfast (where we met a very curious little squirrel who jumped right onto our cutting board as we ate) we headed to the glorious province of Manitoba!
Our original intention was to stay at Falcon Lake campground in Whiteshell Provincial Park of Manitoba, pretty much right after the border. Nice name, awful campground, we soon found out. It was pretty much a swamp, and every site was saturated to the point where your feet sunk into the ground when you walked. It looked like everyone was camping in the front yards of a suburb with the lack of trees and privacy. The lady at the Manitoba Provincial Information Centre had mentioned a place called Grand Beach Provincial Park, about 2 hours north of Falcon. Since we had already driven 6 hours that day, another 2 seemed more than doable and we were on our way. Chris loved it, because most of the road was a windy, hilly, inconsistent track, which somebody decided should be a 90km/hr zone. In the two hours we drove that road, we saw two other cars, but lots of beautiful scenery.
As soon as we pulled into Grand Beach we knew we had made a great choice. The sites were pretty and private, nobody was around, and the site we chose was right next to a path to the beach, which is known to be one of the most beautiful beaches in North America. We hiked along the beach's dunes, and watched the two storms coming in from opposite ends of the horizon towards our campsite. When we got back to the site we (well, Chris) set up a tarp haven, cooked up some pasta with veggies and mixed beans (yes moms, we are eating healthy!), and head to bed after a long day. This morning the rain came hard. We were woken around 7 am by the downpour on the tarps above us, and at that very moment decided for sure it would be a lazy, sleepy, catch-up-on-blogs kind of day. We went right back to sleep in the comfort of our dry, warm tent. Now here we are at Ty's Surfside Deli and Bakery (where the owner has been so nice and let us hang out and drink coffees and eat his awesome food and work on the internet for the last few hours!).
So far, so good! (Thompson, here we come!)

Rain, Sun, and the Angry Mom


So it turns out that there are very few places with Internet in the camping world. Which means that we will still try to update as much as possible but it certainly won't be every day! If we get on the web once or twice a week though we should be able to keep up with our fun stories.
SO! Here we go ... From the Soo we spent another night in Pancake Bay, and left the next morning after making very good friends with a chipmunk, to head to Pukaskwa National Park. We got there around 4:30, set up our stuff, and took advantage of finally having some good weather. We hiked for about an hour while we waited for the sunset, and then hiked across the beaches to a rock perch where we watched the sun setting over Lake Superior. Of course, it started raining again early the next morning so we learned how to best pack up all of our gear while it was very wet. Around noon we headed out to our next destination, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, which we were very excited for since we saw what a cool peninsula it was on early in our planning. The drive into the park was amazing ... we saw 11 deer, a red fox, and a very up close turkey vulture all on the road in front of us. When we got there we chose what the girl at the front desk called the 'best spot in the park'; it was a site right on the very tip of a peninsula in Marie Louise Lake, surrounded on either side by the sound of soft waves. We also soon found out that the ducks of the area really liked the peninsula as well ... two families in particular kept returning to the site throughout the evening and next day to meet up and nibble at whatever food they could find. Unfortunately, the people two sites from us (a dad and his three young kids) were crazy loud which disturbed some of the peace the peninsula had. We ended up having to complain because the dad left the car running for an hour while he blasted his music from it, and when the warden came he started shouting about how he wouldn't want to offend 'those climate-change-sensitive-people', then turned to his son to explain in a loud voice why he left his mother. How pleasant. In any case, they zoomed off somewhere for most of the night, which left us in peace to have a nice fire and enjoy the sound of the water.
The next morning we went on a hike on their Middlebrun trail, which went a couple kilometres through the forest and ended at a beautiful beach, and then turned back around to the start. It was a gorgeous, calm walk, until Katie accidentally stepped into the territory of a ruffed grouse and her young chicks. The mom burst out of nowhere onto the trail with her feathers raised up, screeching and dancing around in an apparently very defensive dance. As Chris yelled 'watch out!!', the bird began to charge at Katie, and she jumped her highest (1 inch) and hightailed it out of there. She didn't even stop running at a reasonable distance. She was gone. Luckily Chris stood his ground, and the bird took her dance away into the forest to lead us (potential predators) away from her babies. When the coast was clear, we continued our calm and lovely hike back to our car, and that was goodbye to Sleeping Giant.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Here we go!


After a long long day of packing on Monday, we finally got to bed around 12:30 am in Owen Sound, and then got up yesterday at 5:30 am and headed to the Chi-Cheemaun. Then we drove in hot, beautiful weather towards the Soo, along the way stopping for an awesome homemade (right out of our new cooler!) caesar pita at Bruce Mines Pier (about 3 and a half hours from where we docked). In between the Soo and our campground, Pancake Bay, we saw a few splashes of rain. We thought nothing of it .... it was still sunny! Then we chose our site, right at the beach, and as we pulled the tent out of the car the rain started. We managed to get the tent up and covered by the tarp, getting totally soaked in the process, and just in time Chris's mom showed up with beers and Cheetos. Basically a life saver! She was in the Soo on business and we all went out for an amazing dinner at a German restaurant called Salzburger Hof in Batchawana Bay right nearby. If you are ever up in that area, go eat there! The food was so good and there was so much of it that the leftovers even made for a perfect lunch on the Sault Ship Canal today.
We also checked out the Canadian Heritage Bushplane Museum, which had some pretty awesome old float planes, but somehow even though we were the first (only) people to get into the flight simulator when they announced the 5 minute warning we waited in the dark theatre for 15 minutes and never got the show. hmm... not meant to be. We just had to use our imaginations. One of the highlights of the day was watching a fox come out of nowhere while we ate lunch. He gave up on the geese pretty quickly and went after some other picnickers, thankfully upwind of us, so while he eyeballed them and eventually got on their table we had a meal and a show.
So we are staying in Pancake Bay for one more night, so that we can get our car a little more organized, and then we are headed north to Pukaskwa National Park on Thursday, where more adventures (and it looks like more rain) await us!

Hopefully this blog works to keep us in touch with everyone. Sorry there aren't any pictures yet but the site was having some troubles. We will try to update this as much as we can, and I think that if you 'subscribe' to it you can get notified when we update it. Enjoy!